The Development of Academic Clothes in the UK, from Undergraduate to PhD

In the United Kingdom, academic attire has a long history that dates back to the medieval era, when universities first became important hubs for study. The regalia—which doctorate candidates wear in particular—has changed over the years as a result of social structures, religion, and monarchical traditions.

Medieval Origins (12th–15th Century)

In the UK, academic attire has its roots in church customs. Early academics at institutions such as Oxford and Cambridge took up the long gowns and hoods worn by priests, since many of them were clerics. These establishments mandated that instructors and pupils dress in clerical attire in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries in order to preserve formality and set them apart from commoners. It was also useful for scholars to wear robes, hoods, and caps to stay warm in the chilly, unheated university hallways.

The Gown: At first, there wasn't much of a dress code for different academic ranks. However, during the 14th century, some details, such as gown length and material, started to set higher degrees apart.

The Hood: Originally intended to shield academics from the weather, hoods served a practical purpose. They evolved into a representation of scholastic success over time. The wearer's faculty or institution was reflected in the color of the hood's lining.

Renaissance and Tudor Period (16th Century)

With the growth of institutions in the Renaissance, there was a more distinct division in academic attire according to degrees. Academic attire was codified in 1533, under the reign of Henry VIII, formalizing the use of certain gowns and hoods for doctorate, master's, and bachelor's degrees.

Doctorate candidates were identified by more ornate, frequently fur-lined gowns that represented their elevated position. Certain colors evolved to represent particular academic disciplines, such as blue for the arts and red for theology. Traditionally, doctorate gowns made of silk or velvet denoted academic excellence and seniority.

18th and 19th Century Evolution

The clothing requirement for academics became much more formal by the eighteenth century. Instead of the more traditional black gowns worn by master's and undergraduate students, doctoral candidates were now expected to wear characteristic scarlet or purple robes for ceremonial events.

Doctorate regalia developed significant symbolic meaning during this time. The Oxford doctor's robe was distinguished by its billowing sleeves, while the Cambridge doctoral hood evolved into a complex garment with velvet edging and silk lining.

20th Century Modernization

Academic attire in the UK grew more uniform in the 20th century. Universities kept their distinctive colors and designs, but for daily usage, new materials like polyester took the place of conventional wool and silk. Doctors of philosophy (PhDs) nevertheless wore ornate garments for formal events, most famously the crimson robe lined with silk.

The mortarboard, sometimes known as the cap, came to represent academic success. Doctorate candidates were further distinguished from other graduates by wearing a tam, or hat, which was typically made of velvet in place of the more traditional mortarboard.

Recent Developments

Doctoral regalia from the UK now represents centuries of heritage while including contemporary elements. Universities uphold distinct fashions. At Cambridge, for example, PhD candidates don a black robe with crimson facings, whereas at Oxford, the classic full-sleeved red robe is still used. Custom lining and trim are examples of personalization that has gained popularity and allows graduates to represent their unique journeys while adhering to tradition.

Anecdote: The Queen’s Doctoral Gown

The year 1951 saw Queen Elizabeth II, then known as Princess Elizabeth, receive an honorary Doctor of Laws from the University of London, marking a significant event in the history of academic attire. Her ermine-trimmed doctoral gown, which combined intellectual and royal traditions, became an iconic image.

The evolution of academic attire in the UK is reflective of wider historical shifts, yet its fundamental meaning of success, tradition, and research never fades.

• A 15th-century painting of scholars in early academic robes.
• A portrait of Henry VIII's dresses displaying academic attire in the Tudor style.
• An image from the 19th century depicting Oxford PhD candidates wearing their recognizable red robes.
• a picture taken of Queen Elizabeth II during her honorary degree ceremony in 1951 while wearing her doctoral robe.