The Development of Academic Clothes in the United Kingdom: From Undergraduate to Doctorate

The History of Academic Dress in the United Kingdom

The origins of academic wear in the UK can be traced back to medieval Europe, when robes were used for both functional and symbolic reasons. At first, they served as a source of warming in cold monasteries and lecture halls, and they also served as a symbol of clerical tradition and scholastic standing. The characteristic robes, hoods, and caps evolved over the years into timeless representations of intellectual distinction and status.

Early Origins: Medieval Times

The origins of academic attire can be discovered in the 12th and 13th centuries, when universities like Cambridge (1209) and Oxford (1096) were established. The long robes and hoods of the clergy were adopted by scholars, many of whom were clerics. These clothes conveyed a sense of power and respect in addition to providing warmth. Depending on the institution and area, the robes' designs at this time differed substantially.

The Standardization of Academic Dress

Universities started to formally enforce the wearing of academic attire from the fourteenth century. King Henry VIII had an impact on this process when he issued an order in 1535 requiring scholars to wear particular clothing. Colors, textiles, and designs that set undergraduates, bachelors, masters, and doctors apart were formalized in the ensuing laws. Doctors' scarlet became a defining element of their uniforms.

Evolution of Doctoral Regalia

Over time, doctoral gowns saw substantial modifications. With their wide sleeves and elaborately embroidered hoods, the early doctorate gowns were majestic yet functional, composed of thick wool or silk. By the Victorian era, doctoral gowns were increasingly ornate, frequently with vivid hues and eye-catching velvet facings. This progression is best illustrated by the scarlet "festal gown," which was first worn by the University of Cambridge in the 19th century and combined fine fabric with vivid colors to signify high scholastic position.

The biretta, a square cap worn by clergy, served as the model for the doctoral bonnet, another essential piece of academic attire. As a mark of academic authority and intellectual distinction, the soft round velvet hat with a tassel eventually became the norm for doctorates in the United Kingdom.

Modern Traditions

Doctoral candidates in the UK now dress in gowns that honor the traditions of their university. Each university adds its own flourishes, although the majority of institutions still use the scarlet gown for PhD graduates. For instance, doctors at the University of Edinburgh wear robes with gold and blue trim, whereas those at the University of Oxford wear full-sleeved scarlet robes with black facings.

Anecdotes and Symbolism

Anecdotal evidence demonstrates how academic attire emphasized the importance of scholarship. Oliver Cromwell's troops are said to have destroyed academic robes and pillaged Oxford during the English Civil War in 1648 because they believed they were emblems of royalist decadence. However, academic attire persisted, reinforcing its symbolic significance.

The historical gravity of academic attire endures, even if modern rituals frequently incorporate elements of tradition and modernity. Wearing medieval-style robes, doctoral candidates serve as visible reminders of the never-ending quest for knowledge.